Sunrise over the Pacific

Manly is like no other place I’ve ever lived, or visited for that matter.  I imagine it’s a bit like Venice Beach but with more class, more money, and less drugs and plastic surgery – although I don't get out much.  Manly has the energy of what I imagine a “normal” beach town emanates, but since this is my first go of living in a beach town I’m gaining my own perspective and it’s amazing.  I LOVE Manly.

Manly Beach looking South

Manly was named by Captain Arthur Philip, English of course, who sailed with the First Fleet.  The First Fleet, which is a big deal here, was the first fleet of ships that sailed from Britain to Australia in 1787 to establish the first European colony in Australia.  They left in May of 1787, and arrived in Jan of 1788.  Their arrival is marked by Australia Day, which is a PARTY here.  In any other country it would be their independence day, but here, just a day of establishment (cause they’re still not independent, shhh).  Anyhoo, the First Fleet consisted of 11 ships, led by Capt. A Philip.  Total free persons, 348, prisoners, 696; total persons, 1044.  Capt. Arthur Philip was founder of the settlement that became Sydney, and first Governor of the state of New South Wales.  He named Manly after the Aborigines that were living in this area when he “founded” the land.  He said, “Their confidence and manly behaviour made me give the name of Manly Cove to this place."  The Aborigines, or “manly men,” ended up spearing him through the shoulder while they were dining on a whale in Manly Cove.  Guess they really were “Manly!” 

Manly Cove

Manly is a peninsula, and creates the North Head of Sydney Harbour.  The Manly peninsula is curvy like someone with a terrifyingly tiny waist and enormous hips.  The “waist” portion of Manly is 2 blocks wide from harbour side to Pacific side.  Parker’s school is exactly in the middle of the “waist.”  At one end is calm Manly Cove beach, at the other is big Manly Beach on the Pacific side.  You can almost toss a coin, “Do I want waves or calm, sun or shade?”  Because each beach will give you something different.  It’s awesome. 

Manly is a walking town, and we walk - or rather bike, scooter, and stroller everywhere.  Many days it’s calm, clear, and beautiful, however recently, with the approach of winter, it’s blustery, chilly, and sometimes unpleasant.  The ocean proximity is only pleasant if the seas are agreeable.  But currently, autumn is marvelous, better than summer.  We’ve had clear blue skies, warm temperatures, and calm seas.  Several days a week I do a Boot Camp on Manly Beach at 6am.  With the recent daylight saving I’ve had the fortune of absorbing the sunrise on Manly Beach as I work my ass off running in the sand and lifting tires over my head while I do squats.  I’m just thankful for a little light since it’s been black until at least 7am.

Manly Beach looking North

Manly Beach is a magical place.  The beach itself is about 1.5 miles long.  The shoreline has a large pedestrian walkway that straddles the beach wall, then a large grassy area with small parks dispersed intermittently over the 1.5 miles, and then another bike and pedestrian walkway that hugs the restaurant and shop lined street.  It’s how you imagine a beach town would look.  During the day you see every walk of life moseying along the beachfront, but at 6am it’s some of the same, but also a different people that dwell.

Sunrise over Manly Beach

I’m not accustomed to seeing the sunrise over the Pacific, sunset for sure, but watching the sun sluggishly appear on the horizon, instead of melt with the day is unique.  With this first light a whole new world materializes in an instant.  You see and hear things you can’t during the day.  Like with every break of the water there is a spray that jets off the top just as the water peaks and then breaks into a roll.  The birds commence their chatter just as the sun awakes and you’re surrounded by a cacophony of their prattle where the air was still before.  The older, hairy gentlemen in their speedos are making their way to and fro the water for their morning dip.  Brave men; not only for going to swim at that hour, but wearing those speedos.  The insane barefoot sand runners are crisscrossing the beach as their upper bodies barely move with their slight motion. 

Then all of a sudden the surfers that speckle the waves emerge with the orange glow.  They look like black crumbs bobbing in the water.  Then one of them sees the wave s/he wants and mightily paddles, pops up on their board, and rides on.  I hold my breath as they charge; you never know when their attempt will falter as a second too late, or a foot’s misstep could throw them down where the washing machine churning of the ocean takes control.  Most of the time I gaze in astonishment at these awesome riders of the waves.  They glide with the wave, just moments ahead of its break.  Sometimes the wave will break on them, but they’re still able to storm through the wall and appear on the other side, floating into shore and then sinking, only to paddle out again.  What a rush it must be.  I imagine surfing is like a drug - a good drug - you either “get it”, and are hooked, or you don’t.  Men and women seeking the surf park their cars around the beach and walk to the edge of the ocean wall and stop, stand, and watch.  The first time I saw someone do this I thought they were stalking or looking for someone, but no, they were just watching the surf, evaluating.  I would love to know what they are thinking; what mathematical equation they’re using to determine where on the beach they’ll ride and perhaps what board they’re going to take off their Subaru.  I’m not even a bit tempted to try surfing.  I love to watch and I appreciate and respect their sport and world, but it’s not for me.  However, Mark keeps threatening to learn.  I tell him to go for it and I’ll wave to him from the beach. 

I love the sunrise, not only the visible beauty, but the peace that arrives with the sun.  Being up at that hour makes me feel like I'm getting a head-start on the day.  It's a refreshing way to tackle a new day.  Once Parker and Reid are awake there is no stopping, so waking early and exercising makes me feel like I'm one up on the little rascals, as if I can take them on with more confidence and strength.  

Living here is thrilling, not only in Australia, but Manly.  When in life will we ever have another opportunity to watch the sunrise over the Pacific?!